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Climb Svolværgeita: A unique adventure in Lofoten

Updated: May 12

In the heart of the Lofoten Islands, silhouetted against the sky over Svolvær, rises one of Norway’s most iconic rock formations: Svolværgeita. Nicknamed "The Goat" due to its two distinctive "horns," this granite spire has been a symbol for climbers worldwide for over a century.



A bit of history

Svolværgeita was first climbed in 1910 by Ferdinand Schjelderup, Alf Bonnevie Bryn, and Carl Wilhelm Rubenson. Since then, it has become a rite of passage for many climbers visiting Lofoten. The tradition is not only to reach the summit but also to make the famous leap between the two horns. A thrilling moment that stays with you for a lifetime.


Climbing Svolværgeita today

Today, there are several routes leading to the top of the "Geita." The most classic ones involve trad climbing, although some semi-equipped routes are also available. Difficulty varies depending on the route, but popular options like Vestveggen (the West Face) are well within reach for climbers with basic outdoor climbing experience.


An adventure for true explorers

Climbing Svolværgeita is a true adventure. The views from the summit are breathtaking, with endless panoramas over the sea, fjords, and rugged Lofoten mountains. The feeling of standing atop the horns, surrounded by this raw beauty, is something every climber should experience at least once.


How to climb it safely

While the "Geita" is accessible to climbers with some experience, safety must always come first. If you're not used to traditional climbing techniques or you want to fully enjoy the experience stress-free, the best option is to climb it with a local guide.

At TRAD, we offer guided ascents of Svolværgeita: safe, fun, and adapted to your level. Our certified guides will provide all necessary equipment and ensure you feel confident every step of the way, so you can focus entirely on the experience.


Book your adventure

If you're planning your trip to Lofoten, don't miss the opportunity to climb one of its most iconic landmarks. We can't wait to share the adventure with you!





Frequently Asked Questions about climbing Svolværgeita


What climbing level is required?

For the classic route (Vestveggen), basic experience in outdoor rock climbing is recommended. You should be comfortable belaying and rappelling. No prior trad climbing experience is needed if you join with a guide.


Do I need to bring my own climbing gear?

If you climb with TRAD, we provide all technical equipment: helmets, harnesses, climbing shoes, ropes, and trad gear. You just need to bring appropriate clothing.


When is the best time to climb Svolværgeita?

The best season is from June to September, when the weather is more stable and the days are long, offering plenty of daylight even late in the evening. Outside of these months, conditions can be colder and more slippery.


What happens if the weather is bad?

Your safety is our top priority. If conditions are not suitable for climbing, we will suggest alternatives like hiking, indoor climbing, or rescheduling. We’ll always look for the best and safest option.



What to Bring for Your Svolværgeita Adventure


Clothing

  • Comfortable, technical layers: breathable and easy to move in.

  • Windproof and waterproof jacket: weather can change quickly in Lofoten.

  • Durable pants: ideally for mountain activities or climbing.

  • Light gloves (optional): for the approach hike.


Footwear

  • Approach shoes: comfortable and grippy for rocky paths and trails.

  • Climbing shoes: provided by us if you don’t have your own.


Accessories

  • Small backpack: to carry water, snacks, and extra clothing.

  • Water and energy snacks: nuts, energy bars, dried fruit.

  • Sun protection: sunglasses, sunscreen, cap.

  • Camera or fully charged phone: for capturing your big moment!


Technical gear

  • All climbing equipment is included when you book with TRAD.



 
 
 

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