Svolværgeita front side
The classic ascent of Lofoten’s iconic ‘The goat of Svolvaer’
If there is one climb that captures the spirit of climbing in Lofoten, this is it.
Who is this for?
Climbers with previous outdoor experience who feel comfortable climbing around grade 5 (Norwegian scale) and are motivated for a longer mountain day. Not suitable for complete beginners.
Group size
Maximum of 2 climbers per guide.
Required equipment
All climbing gear is included.
Duration
Full day experience. Normally between 5 and 8 hours including approach, climbing and descent.
Meeting point
Parking lot to Djevelporten. Exact meeting details will be confirmed after booking.
Conditions
This activity is weather-dependent. If conditions are not safe, we will try to reschedule
or provide a full refund. Cancellation at the latest 7 days in advance.
Safety
Please review our safety policy HERE.
Price
1 pers: 5500 NOK
2 pers: 3500 NOK pr person
Availability
From May to October
*If you prefer other dates or times that are not on the calendar, get in touch with us and we’ll try to make it happen.
*NOT SURE IF THIS CLIMB IS FOR YOU?
Tell us your experience and we’ll recommend the best option.
Forsida is the classic route on Svolværgeita, the famous twin-horned pinnacle rising above the sea near Svolvær. For generations of climbers, reaching the summit via this line has been a rite of passage and one of the most memorable mountain adventures in Northern Norway.
Five pitches of compact granite lead steadily towards the summit. Along the way you'll climb elegant cracks, technical slabs, and exposed sections with views stretching across the fjords and surrounding peaks. The climbing is varied, engaging, and never feels forced. Every pitch has its own character.
More than just a climb, Forsida is a journey to one of the most iconic summits in Lofoten.
THE HISTORY
The first recorded ascent of Forsida dates back to 1947. Since then, it has become the classic multi-pitch route on Svolværgeita and one of the most climbed rock routes in Lofoten.
Its reputation comes not from difficulty, but from quality. The line follows natural weaknesses through the face, creating an elegant route that feels surprisingly logical from the first pitch to the summit.
Today, Forsida remains the route many climbers dream about before visiting Lofoten.
THE EXPERIENCE
The day begins with a scenic approach from the Djevelporten parking area, following the trail beneath the tower before reaching the start of the climb.
The route follows five pitches of excellent granite climbing, combining:
– Beautiful finger and hand cracks
– Technical slab climbing that rewards precise footwork
– Comfortable belay ledges and exposed positions
– Constant views of the sea, fjords, and surrounding mountains
And of course, the final reward: standing on the famous twin horns of Svolværgeita high above the fjord.
After the summit, we descend using established abseils and fixed anchors before hiking back to the trailhead.
Truly a stunning route with a huge historic background that is worth every bit of effort.
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