The classic ascent of Lofoten’s iconic ‘The goat of Svolvaer’

Forsida is the classic route on Svolværgeita, the famous twin-horned pinnacle rising above the sea near Svolvær. For generations of climbers, reaching the summit via this line has been a rite of passage and one of the most memorable mountain adventures in Northern Norway.

Five pitches of compact granite lead steadily towards the summit. Along the way you'll climb elegant cracks, technical slabs, and exposed sections with views stretching across the fjords and surrounding peaks. The climbing is varied, engaging, and never feels forced. Every pitch has its own character.

More than just a climb, Forsida is a journey to one of the most iconic summits in Lofoten.

THE HISTORY

The first recorded ascent of Forsida dates back to 1947. Since then, it has become the classic multi-pitch route on Svolværgeita and one of the most climbed rock routes in Lofoten.

Its reputation comes not from difficulty, but from quality. The line follows natural weaknesses through the face, creating an elegant route that feels surprisingly logical from the first pitch to the summit.

Today, Forsida remains the route many climbers dream about before visiting Lofoten.

THE EXPERIENCE

The day begins with a scenic approach from the Djevelporten parking area, following the trail beneath the tower before reaching the start of the climb.

The route follows five pitches of excellent granite climbing, combining:

– Beautiful finger and hand cracks

– Technical slab climbing that rewards precise footwork

– Comfortable belay ledges and exposed positions

– Constant views of the sea, fjords, and surrounding mountains

And of course, the final reward: standing on the famous twin horns of Svolværgeita high above the fjord.

After the summit, we descend using established abseils and fixed anchors before hiking back to the trailhead.